That was the only description for it, but first things first, this was plan ‘B’. Initially I was going to do Ciste Dubh in Kintail a single Munro with a ridgey Corbett in front of it, nice. I settled in and did the three and a half hour drive enduring many road works along the way to arrive at a snow burdened landscape. There was so much snow it was unbelievable and there lay the problem, there was too much snow, I know, I know. It was around 30-40 cm deep and none of the parking areas had been ploughed, there was literally nowhere to park, it was grim. Try as I might I could find nowhere to park, the nearest cleared lay-by was miles away. In the end there was nothing for it but to abandon the plan. I was here so I thought I could at least go a few miles down the road to have a quick look at Eilean Donan Castle, scene of the film Highlander and of course many other films.
Eilean Donan Castle
So I drove all the way back arriving home quite late thoroughly exhausted and to say in the least a bit disappointed. I threw a pizza into the oven and me into the shower, I wasn’t to be outdone, a new plan slowly filtered into my mind as I enjoyed the hot water splashing over me, hmm.
Fionn Bheinn Is a single hill accessed from the village of Achnasheen which is renowned for being a bit of a boggy affair to summit, with all the snow this would be the ideal chance and on checking the weather forecast there was a weather window in a couple of days, great, time to recover.
With the gear sorted a second time I set off, a little later than planned as usual, another long drive but at least up a different road. Too many hours later I arrived in the village of Achnasheen and pulled into the car park, there was a space, sort of with a bit of almost off roading in the snow.
It was a beautiful day and I duly set off out the wrong end of the car park, this was a bad omen. Setting off again in the correct direction I crunched my way over compacted frozen snow up through a yard and on to the open hillside. That was the beginning.
The snow was soft and ankle to knee deep, this would be the story for the rest of the ascent with some traps being deeper. It wasn’t long before it was time to disrobe as I started to over heat, the layers were coming off and being strapped to the pack, just next the the crampons and Ice axe that I would drag all the way up and never need. It was at this point I wished I had snow shoes or even the Telemark skis with climbing skins attached currently sitting back at home. The fact that there were a number of ski tourers descending and having fun didn’t help either.
Deep snow
I pressed on taking several breathers, the soft deep snow exhausting, press on stop wait for heart, lungs and legs to recover and press on again. I reached a point where I thought I must be close to half way by now surely? I checked my position on the GPS, much to my dismay I was barely a quarter of the way up. I dumped my pack in the snow for a seat, it was time for a lunch of ham and cheese pitta, I needed refuelling. So I pressed on and met a girl on the descent, we chatted about the difficulty of the snow and she was sure I would make it, she had more confidence than me at this point.
I pressed on using every trick in the book, pick a point to aim for, get there and rest; count 20 paces then stop and count to 20 before pushing on. Before long it was starting to get dark and I struggled on pushing past the constant thought of turning back; I was here and didn’t want to have to return another day. Before long I had to don the head torch, it was too dark to see much any more. Another check of the GPS, a look at the contour lines and check the altimeter on my watch; I was so near yet so far. Head down, keep going.
Suddenly I was there at the proposed camp, I could of cried but I was too dry. First order of business was to get the tent up, the ground frozen and rocky. I scoured around and eventually found a flat patch of snow, that would have to do, luckily there was little wind, the guy lines more for show than anything else. It should take five to six hours up and down in the summer, it had taken me six hours just to get up and this wasn’t the summit just the bealach between the summit and another small hill; the summit would keep until the morning. Food and a large hot mug of tea were the order now. Wow did that tea taste good.
On the brink
Next morning was dull and overcast, I headed to the summit with little hope of the sun breaking through for some alpenglow, the light was flat as a pancake. But making it to the summit was at least a satisfying moment.
Munro 243, Fionn Bheinn.
The Fannichs looking rather dull.
I headed back for breakfast, I had little liquid water left which meant the dreaded snow melting, a large pile in the pot for a dribble of water.
Heading back to my tent
Melting snow for my morning cuppa and porridge
Corniced crags just beyond my tent
Fuelled and ready for the descent
I packed up now fed and watered, it was to be the same heading back down in the deep snow and not any easier as I’d hoped. Just to rub it in there were more ski tourers having a great time. It had been a disappointment photographically with the dull light apart from one brief bust of sunlight on a distant Slioch.
Slioch, The Spear
What a joy it was to be back down and on a solid footing again, I made it back to the car and an icy bottle of part frozen fizzy water; it was good to get the boots off and sit in a seat.
It had been the slog of slogs, an adventure to be sure, but by just putting one foot in front of the other and repeating multiple times I made to the top. Back at home I was now looking forward to another hot shower and pizza. What a trip.